Living in Lapland, a wintry experience

This is now my second winter in Rovaniemi, a place where the Arctic truly comes to life. I work for Safartica as a Front Desk representative, welcoming travellers eager for adventure. They walk into our office eager to book a husky sled safari, dream of meeting reindeer up close, or test their skills with ice fishing and forest skiing—a cherished Nordic tradition.

But above all, nearly everyone comes with one hope: to witness the Northern Lights. Some embark on a bus tour, others opt for a fireside picnic deep in the woods. The more daring hop on snowmobiles, while the truly adventurous float in a frozen lake, gazing skyward from the icy water—protected by an insulated suit that keeps them warm. Yet, no matter how they chase them, the real stars of the show are always the auroras.

Living mythology

According to Finnish folklore, a mystical fox creates the auroras by sweeping its tail across the snow, sending sparks of light into the sky. That’s why in Finnish, the Northern Lights are called Revontulet—“fox fires.”

For the Sámi, the ancient indigenous people spread across Finnish, Norwegian, Swedish, and Russian Lapland, the lights are the souls of ancestors, dancing between worlds. And when you stand beneath a sky ablaze with shifting green and violet flames, you understand—it truly feels alive.

A changing land

I’ve been here since autumn 2022. I have seen the colours of the trees and the earth transform. I’ve seen the golden and red hues of fall fade, the forests rich with mushrooms, the powerful scents of the wood, the reindeer grazing by the roadside—everything has moved on.

Now Rovaniemi is white and muffled, motionless. The small waterfall outside my house is slowly freezing under the grip of -10°C temperatures, which arrived earlier than expected. By October, I was already shovelling snow and strapping spikes on my shoes.

I commute 7 km to work each day by bike, no matter if it’s 0°C or -20°C. My city bike, outfitted with studded tires, glides over ice and snow with ease.

Life on the river

The moment the river freezes, life shifts—snowmobiles and cross-country skis become the preferred modes of transport (and yes, I sometimes ski to work!). I do my grocery shopping with a sled because, well, there’s snow everywhere.

Some children and elderly people glide through the streets on sleds, a scene straight out of a fairy-tale. By November, Christmas stars glow in every window, and people leave food out for wild birds—though more often than not, the squirrels get to it first.

Sauna or ice swimming?

One thing that never changes, no matter the season, is Finland’s greatest passion: the sauna. Many, including me, have one at home.

It’s fired up once or twice a week, and between sessions, you step outside into the crisp air or roll in the snow —a great treatment for skin and circulation. Some pour a splash of beer onto the hot stones for a rich, roasted aroma. Others add drops of essential oil—pine, eucalyptus, and lavender are favourites, but terva (tar) is a true Finnish classic, even used to prepare a smoky, intriguing liqueur.

Then there’s avantouinti, the art of winter swimming. A pump keeps a section of the lake from freezing, leaving you the thrill of a chilling dip. I haven’t dared to try it yet, but my brother seems to love it.

Everyday life

In many ways, Finland feels like an almost perfect country. Fair wages, world-class education and services, and an unspoken yet ever-present respect for others, even in smallest gestures. And don’t get me started on bureaucracy—I always joke that visiting a public office in Rovaniemi feels like going to a spa. You leave feeling relaxed and smiling!

Let’s also bust the myth of Finland being outrageously expensive. Sure, tourists might find prices steep—excursions, accommodation, dining, and transport don’t come cheap. But for residents, it´s a different story. Rental prices usually include heating, water, or electricity. Energy costs are quite low. Even grocery shopping isn’t more expensive than back in my hometown in Italy.

And most importantly, Finland deeply respects work-life balance. People start early, but by 4 pm, most Finns are already heading home, ready to enjoy the rest of their day.

The town of Santa Claus

And then there’s Rovaniemi’s best-kept secret—the one thing the whole world envies us for: Santa Claus. Yes, the real one. In all his (very real) flesh and bone. The one and only, official Santa lives here! You can meet him at Santa Claus Village, step into his house, and see presents neatly stacked, waiting to be delivered, sorted by country. You can even glimpse the legendary clock he uses on Christmas Eve to slow down time and reach every child in the world.

Before meeting him, a cheerful elf welcomes you—your visit is private and utterly magical. Behind his house, you’ll find his reindeer, and just beyond, past the Arctic Circle line (which runs right through here), lies the famous Santa Claus Post Office. Children can send their letters here, deliver them in person, or hand them to the elves to be sent. The entire Village is a blaze of lights, colours, and Christmas music playing on a loop year-round, even in summer!

I truly believe that everyone should experience the Great North at least once in their lifetime. The auroras, the silence of the ice, the untouched wilderness—it’s like stepping into an enchanted world. And yet, it’s a world that feels profoundly welcoming and simple, filling you with a sense of peace.

When to visit

For a true winter wonderland: November to late March.

For a cool summer escape: But beware—the Lapland mosquitoes are legendary!